Tuning up on fragile keys (pics)

[gururyan]

I have a friend that approached me a few years ago with the classic "old car in a barn" story, only it was "great-grandpa gave me his old guitar" instead. He does not play guitar but figured I'd enjoy checking it out. So I did. I told him what it was, what it was roughly worth, not to sell it...ever (unless it was to me of course), and to take care of it. He has heeded my advice and lets me borrow it anytime I like for as long as I like. Well, I've asked to borrow it once again after almost 2 years. Believe it or not, I was the last to string and tune it and after all this time the guitar was still in tune except for one string which required about a quarter turn to bring back to 440.

Anyway, the point of my post. As you can see, the tuning keys are still intact and in great condition. My concern is that I want to record some slide with it and am dying to take it up to Open A. My reluctance is in the fear that the keys could shatter/explode under the torque it would require to get there. I am not going to have that on me, no way. So, how can I safely retune the guitar without risking a broken key? It think that the flathead screws (as seen from the rear headstock shot) are connected to the cog/gears they pass through. My thought is that if I actually applied the torque at that screwhead with a flathead, I could take lots of the stress of the key and basically use two hands to turn both the screw and the key (mainly the screw) together to safely bring the tension up to Open A.

Is this the right idea?

http://homepage.mac.com/ryansdesigns/.Pictures/Gear/other/NationalHead.jpg

http://homepage.mac.com/ryansdesigns/.Pictures/Gear/other/NationalHeadBack.jpg

http://homepage.mac.com/ryansdesigns/.Pictures/Gear/other/NationalTuning.jpg

[maxtheaxe]

Why not simply re-string with some lighter-gauge strings and then tune as usual, or possibly tune to an open G and use a capo?

It seems to me that you may have other concerns besides the tuners, such as the bridge, top, perhaps neck joint or the base of the headstock, etc.

[gururyan]

Actually, it's built like a brick outhouse. I don't fear anything getting hurt on this guitar...except those keys.

Here are some old shots of it when he first loaned it to me...before I even took off the "vintage" strings (actually they disintegrated in my hands as I unwound them).

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v173/gururyan/oldguard.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v173/gururyan/Bodyback.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v173/gururyan/Bottomsup.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v173/gururyan/Bodyfront.jpg

[sliding-tom]

maxtheaxe is right: either use light gauge strings or tune down to open G and use a capo. Best chance.

[maxtheaxe]

I was looking at the new pics, and it appears that the axe has had quite a bit of exposure to varying temp and humidity conditions over the years; not a big surprise, since it wasn't the custom of makers from those years to attempt to educate buyers as to the effects of climate extremes. But, it does indicate that the glue joints, at the very least, are probably not what they were. Hell, the makers would probably be astounded that the axe is still extant after so many years,as it was never intended to last so long.

I've seen quite a few of these with broken or repaired tailpieces; those tailpieces are just very thin stamped/chromed metal, and quite fragile...ball-ends rip right out or the piece itself just snaps loose right along the bend at the guitar top. I wouldn't try to tune this to open A even with new tuners.

On that note, I agree that those vintage tuners should be preserved, but I might be more inclined to remove them, set 'em aside and replace with something appropriate from Waverly or Grover, et al.

[gururyan]

Ok, today is the day.

Oil, Open G, and a capo is the route I've decided to go.